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Make up advice

Use this advice as a guide only and modify your make up routine to suit your own requirements.

Introduction:

Firstly, there is no right way to putting on make up and also no wrong way but simply a variety of different ways to create different looks, so have fun exploring the possibilities, until you find a combination that works well for you. The best way to illustrate this is to look at the women who work in the supermarkets. Every person is a different age/shape/build and hence wears their make up differently to reflect this. Always wear make up in line with where you are going. If you are going out during the day, and then you would only need a little make up to enhance your facial features, but for a night on the town clubbing, your make up would be a little more noticeable and this would reflect your clothing and venue.

What ever we are doing we do not want to draw unwanted attention to the fact that we are not genuine women, no matter how proportionate in size we are or on how good we look. In this case less make up means more. The following sections are my thoughts on doing an effective day make up look and how to enhance for a better night look without looking overly made up. This is based on the make up that I have used successfully over the years and this has given me a confident look when out in public.

Foundation:

The most effective foundations that I have found, are the Kryolan paint sticks (looks like a large lip stick) theatrical make up, which is available in various skin shades. This ranges from the 1W (lightest, which also acts as a good concealer) through to 15W. For most of us a 5W would be about right but those of you who have fairer skin and lighter beards may need a 3W, 4W. This is the product that drag queens use to give them that amazing skin texture.

Firstly, apply the concealer evenly and sparingly to the beard area, usually the top lip, cheeks and area under the eyes (to hide the darker 'bag' area). Blend with a small latex make up sponge in a dabbing motion until the areas are covered with the concealer applying a little more if necessary until yor face look a pale white. You can also use a flat blending brush to achieve similar results. Take note here, that when covering the chin/jaw areas blend down the neck slightly tapering off as you go, as this will ensure th foundation blends better for an even appearance.

Secondly, take the foundation of your choice and with even strokes cover the beard areas and a little on the forehead (to blend up towards the hairline) and top of nose. Note, when doing the face stop at the jaw line and bottom of the chin. When you come to blending it in (with a small make up sponge in a dabbing motion) you will blend the foundation down the neckline tapering it out towards the bottom of the neck. It is important to do this, as this technique reduces the visible tide mark and the foundation looks more natural. Be sure to blend towards the area behind the ears, a little on the ears themselves and on the eyelids and areas below the eyebrows. In fact every area of your face that will be visible. Take you time doing this, as this is the most important area of making up. If done properly the effect will last for some time and look good and enable your facial appeaance to blend in when in public. If you do a rush job then your lack of efforts will show and your make over will not look good.

Once you are happy with the foundation take your chosen setting powder (Kryolan TL1 or TL3 works well, also (Leichner powder) and using a powder puff dab on the powder all over the forehead, face, eyelids and neck. Be generous with the powder and make sure that every area is covered. Then take a powder brush and lightly brush away the excess powder from these areas starting with the top areas and working your way down towards the bottom of the neck. Once this is done take a tissue and rub away any foundation that has gone over on to the lips and using an eyebrow brush, brush away any excess powder from the eyebrows starting with the inside (part closest to the nose) and working outwards. Brush away any loose powder and you are ready to start applying make up.

Eyebrows:

To start, you need to enhance your eyebrows by keeping them looking neat and tidy and give them a little extra grooming before applying make up. This may be plucking to give a feminine shape or just trimming to ensure they are not too long or bushy, depending upon which meathod suits yu best. Once you've applied your foundation and face powder, use an eyebrow brush to brush away any excess powder that may have accumulated on them before starting to colour.

The next part is to colour them in line with their own colour. I prefer to use a soft Kajal pencil, which not only colours them evenly, but also ensures that they still remain natural looking. If you do not have one of these, then an ordinary eyebrow pencil will do but the point tends to be a lot smaller than that of a Khol pencil or Kajaj pencil. Using the side of the pencil, gently colour the hairs (not the skin underneath) evenly with your choice of colour. Once you've done this evenly to both sides, spray a little hair spray onto an eyebrow brush/comb and gently brush outwards to fix the colour and hold the brows in a neat shape. Alternatively, use a moist angle brush and a moist brown eyeshadow applied evenly with a brush to cover the hairs for that natural look. 

Another way is to use a brown mascara and gently brush the colour from the inside (top of the nose) to the outside in a single sweep and then use an eyebrow brush/comb to ensre an even finish. Note, that it is very easy to apply far to much so some practise to get this right is needed.

Some people, especially for stage and drag make up use eyebrow wax and sealor to block out ones natural eyebrows and then draw over with a Khol or Kajal pencil a new eyebrow line in a large arch a little way over where the natural eyebrow used to be. This can also work (although much toned down) for day use with a thin eyebrow line directly over the natural eyebrow. Using and eyebrow stencil is alo an option and there are many different types available depending upon the look you want to create.

Eyes:

Firstly, its an idea to put a little loose powder on you cheeks so as to catch any powder eyeshadow that falls. This way you can easily brush it away without leaving a colour tinge to your cheeks. Now take a dark brown eyeshadow (powder eyeshadows or cream eyeshadows are both good) and using an eyeshadow brush gently brush the colour on to the eyelid itself and halfway up into the area under the eyebrows. Then take a white or cream eyeshadow and brush onto the areas above the eyelid and below the eyebrow. Once complete take a clean eyeshadow brush and gently brush over the two colours to smooth out the lines and remove any excess. This helps to give your makeup a better finish with no distinct lines of colour.

Once done apply some mascara to the upper lashes evenly makin sure to avoid them clomping together. Apply several coats rather than one big coat allowing time for each coat to dry a little, as this will help avoid clomping. As an option here you can with a black eyeliner or the dark brown eyeshadow draw a line inside the rim of the lower eye lid for extra effect and enhance with a little mascara on the lower lashes. This looks good especially for a nighttime look.

False eyelashes can also be used to good effect with both day and evening looks, but use thinner lashes for a toned down effect. Larger and more bold lashes are great for drag or the Essex look only. Add and extra touch to your make overs with a set of underlashes, which will make your eyes really stand out, especially in photo shoots.

Lips:

Taking a lip liner, draw carefully a line around the edge of the lips, paying particular attention to the cupids bow area on the top of the upper lip. The colour of the liner should be similar to the lip stick colour that you intend to use or slightly lighter. All lip colours are best applied with a good brush (No.1), as this gives a cleaner look at the edges and helps to produce a better finish. Firstly go over the lip line with the brush then fill in the lips with the colour of your choice. When you do this widen the mouth so that the lip colour goes into the cracks of the lips, thus giving you a fuller look. Then, blot with a tissue and apply a little face powder to the lips and brush off carefully and then reapply the lip colour with the brush. This locks in the lip colour and makes the lip colour last for longer, holding an even lip line without the colour weeping. For that day look a lighter toned down lipstick colour would be best but for evening anything goes.

Blushers:

Imagine a line from the corner of your mouth to the area or the ear lust above the lobe. Taking a light pink/rouge or bronze colour blusher, apply evenly to the cheek with a good blusher brush sweeping the blusher towards the area of the side burn keeping above that imaginary line. Always apply gently and evenly so as to avoid looking too overly made up. Also apply a little to your temples for added effect.

Nails:

Firstly, put on a layer of base coat on the nail first and allow time to dry. This saves the nail polish staining your nails when it is removed. This can happen with some of the more striking and prominent colours, such as reds and plums. 

Then with the nail varnish of your choice apply the first sweep down the center of the nail then a sweep to either side. Once you have done this on all of the nails allow time to dry for at least half an hour before applying a topcoat (the same clear varnish as the base coat). This will help to set the colour and make a chip resistant surface. For those of you who are just going out for the evening, I would recommend a special speed dry nail varnish that is dry to the touch in a few minutes compared to normal varnishes that take much longer.

Finishing touches for that evening look:

The area below the eyebrows could be enhanced with a light dusting of another colour to the outside of the eye. Remember to blend it in with the white colour to increase the effect. Here you can apply a bolder lipstick for a more evening look. Applying some lip-gloss over your lipstick can make the look more glamorous. Applying some glitter mascara or glitter lip-gloss can also help to make that different look.

Makeup removal:

There are two good ways to removing make up without leaving any trace. The first is to use some baby oil. Put some on your hands and wash it in as you would with soap and the make up will dissolve and come off very easily. Then wash your face with a flannel and hot water to remove all traces of the make up and the oil. Alternatively, buy some 'all in one' facial wipes which have a pH balanced formula to cleanse your face as well as removing make up. Afterwards put on a little moisturiser onto your face to help keep it supple and soft looking.